Home energy audits and home testing in Vancouver

What drives bills and comfort here

• Winters are long but mild: temperatures rarely drop below about −4°C to −8°C, so heat pumps run efficiently nearly all winter.
• Wet winters: heavy rain from October to March soaks walls and roofs, and new homes here must have a rainscreen behind the siding.
• Summers are dry, and heat waves are now a health risk in homes without cooling.
• Most homes heat with electricity or gas, and power is relatively cheap (about 12.6¢/kWh in Vancouver, 2025), which favours heat pumps.

Local risks to plan for

• Wind-driven rain soaks walls; new homes here must have a rainscreen behind the siding.
• All-time high of 32.4°C on June 29, 2021.
• 171 hours of wildfire smoke and haze in September 2020.
• October 2024 atmospheric rivers flooded homes and basements across Metro Vancouver.

Tests that matter most here

• Blower door test Measures how leaky the house is (ACH50) and helps find leaks; testing before and after air sealing shows what the work achieved. Best timing: Any season, ideally on a calm day.
• Infrared (thermal) scan Shows missing insulation and air leaks as temperature differences on walls and ceilings. Best timing: December to February, early morning or evening, with at least 10°C between inside and outside, little sun and low wind.
• Attic inspection Checks insulation depth and looks for damp or stained roof sheathing, a sign of roof leaks or warm, moist air escaping into the attic. Best timing: During or just after the October-to-March rainy season, when wetting is at its peak.
• Ventilation assessment Checks that bath and kitchen fans vent outdoors and move enough air to control winter damp in a tighter house. Best timing: At the same visit as the blower door test.
• Radon test Coastal radon is usually low, but a long-term test is the only way to know your home's level. Best timing: At least 91 days, mostly in fall and winter, on the lowest floor you use.

Upgrades that usually pay off here

1. Heat pump in place of baseboards or gas. One system heats and cools. Mild coastal winters keep it in its efficient range most of the time, and it uses much less electricity than baseboard heaters. Size it for both heating and cooling; an oversized unit short-cycles.
2. Air sealing plus attic insulation. Usually the best envelope value for the money. Aim for at least today's new-home attic level here, about R-39. Fix roof leaks and attic moisture before adding insulation.
3. Quiet continuous exhaust fans or an HRV. Keeps winter humidity in check once the house is tighter. An HRV brings in fresh air and recovers much of the heat from stale air going out. In most coastal homes an HRV is a better fit than an ERV.
4. Shading for hot, sunny rooms. Exterior shades, awnings and trees cut summer heat gain at low cost. Close coverings on sunny windows by day, and ventilate at night when it's cooler outside. On smoky days, keep windows closed and rely on filtration instead.
5. Better filtration for smoke days. A MERV 13 filter in the furnace or air handler, or a certified portable air cleaner, keeps indoor air cleaner when wildfire smoke drifts in. Check that your system's fan and filter slot can handle a higher-rated filter.